TIPS & TRIK MEMBELI MOBIL BEKAS/ SECOND HAND

Membeli mobil bekas? Iya... mobil second hand, bahasa halusnya. Kelihatannya mudah tapi sebenarnya susah banget lho. Bila suatu saat Anda sudah kebelet ingin membeli mobil idaman (kayaknya sudah “sesuatu banget” gitu), tetapi kantong lagi cekak, maka mau tidak mau yang bekas/ second bolehlah jadi pilihan. Kasihan deh gue, soalnya belum-belum pikiran sudah ruwet dihantui pertanyaan; sudah OK kah pilihan saya?

Pertanyaan yang sangat wajar, berhubung membeli mobil second itu ibarat, “seperti membeli kucing dalam karung”. Sekali salah pilih/ beli, maka penyesalan yang ada tiada berarti lagi. And so pasti kantong Anda akan terogoh semakin dalam. Alias tekor habis...

Sering orang berpendapat, bila beli mobil second, pilih saja yang bodinya mulus kinclong-kinclong, soal mesinnya? Itu mah nomer dua! Atau sebaliknya pilih saja yang mesinnya masih halus, soal bodinya? Itu mah nomer dua! Nah mulai bingung khan? Sebenarnya ada beberapa tips sederhana yang bisa dipakai sebagai bekal ketika akan membeli mobil second hand (memang agak bawel sih, tapi yang penting selamat!), yaitu:

• Berpikir realistis, namanya barang bekas pasti sudah berubah banyak dari kondisi barunya.

• Berpikir realistis, karena sudah berubah banyak berarti biaya perawatan awal bakal melejit.

• Untuk itu perlu dialokasikan adanya 2 macam budget/ anggaran. Budget ke 1, untuk biaya meminang sang mobil second pujaan. Budget ke 2, untuk biaya penyegaran/ renovasi/ rebuild agar mobil dapat tampil segar bugar kinclong-kinclong. Siapa yang nggak mau? 

• Berpikir realistis, tidak perlu ngotot mengambil mobil idaman (kecuali Anda penggemar berat, sehingga Anda merasa “menderita, sengsara dan tidak bahagia” bila belum bisa memilikinya), sekiranya ternyata kondisi After Sales Service-nya sangat tidak mendukung. Misal; cari spare partnya susah dan jarang, bengkelnya jarang & harus khusus, harga jual kembali jatuh, dll.

• Bila sudah ketemu mobil second pilihan, berpikirlah selalu, bahwa kondisi terakhir bodi dan mesin sangatlah penting.   

• Sebelum beraksi lebih lanjut, tanyakan dulu harga penawaran dari si penjual. Selain itu tanyakan kelengkapan surat-surat resminya (utama BPKB dan STNK) dan biaya perpanjangan STNK nya, agar tidak kaget belakangan.

hati-hati dengan penyok seperti ini.

• Untuk kondisi bodi, yang penting; tidak ada bekas tabrakan berat, tidak ada karat/ bentol-bentol bakal karatan di sekujur bodi (terus terang karat itu seperti penyakit kanker, susah dibasmi), pintu-pintu dan kap-kap mesin dan bagasi/ pintu belakang masih berfungsi baik dan normal, kaca-kaca mobil utuh tidak banyak goresan dan retakan halus, kaca/ mika lampu-lampu di depan dan buritan utuh tidak ada yang pecah atau bolong, bagian-bagian pinggang tidak ada yang penyok (bakalan susah dibetulkan), karet-karet pintu masih kenyal sehingga masih berfungsi baik saat pintu ditutup, warna cat masih rata/ tidak bule.   

• Untuk kondisi mesin, yang penting; tidak ada bunyi ekstrim (keletek-keletek seperti suara mesin jahit engkol) saat mesin dihidupkan, karena itu tandanya oli mesin agak tersumbat jalannya (so tinggal menghitung hari, bahwa mesin sebentar lagi jebol), tidak ada rembesan oli di sekujur bodi mesin, bak oli transmisi, bak oli gardan dan ujung knalpot, tidak ada oli ngebul di ujung knalpot, asap knalpot bebas bau oli. 

• Tetaplah tampil cool dan kritis, jangan mudah terbujuk oleh rayuan/ bualan si penjual yang bersifat menyepelekan, bahwa kerusakan/ cacat yang berhasil ditemukan itu tidak apa-apa, mudah diganti, spare partnya mudah didapatkan di toko-toko, dll. Hati-hati hal ini bakalan membuat kerepotan ketika mobil sudah terlanjur dibeli. Misal; mika kaca lampu belok/ seins / winker dalam keadaan pecah, logikanya kan sudah diganti sama si penjual (lha wong katanya mudah dibeli di toko-toko). Tapi kenapa tidak diganti? Perlu dicurigai, bahwa part tersebut memang sudah langka di pasaran.

• Perhatikan di dalam kap mesin tidak ada kabel-kabel asing/ kabel listrik rumahan berseliweran, patut dicurigai kondisi sensor-sensor, AC dan instrument (tachometer, speedometer, dll.) kemungkinan sudah bermasalah/ mal function/ banyak yang sudah mati.

• Perhatikan interior dengan seksama; plafon relatif bersih dan tidak ngendoi (sudah kendor menggantung), dasbor dan panel-panel pintu terpasang rapi, tidak ada yang baret akut, robek/ pecah/ retak, fungsi maju mundur dan rebah jok-jok masih bagus/ tidak ngoplak dan tidak seret, lapisan dan spons jok tidak ada yang bolong, cuil besar atau sobek (ingat spons jok dibuat secara khusus dengan sistem cetakan oleh pabrikan, sehingga penggantinya bakalan susah ditemukan di pasaran). Hindari beli mobil ini jika didapati sound system sudah dimodifikasi, karena kemungkinan tempat nongkrongnya sudah dibobok habis dan sistem kelistrikannya sudah berubah banyak, kecuali anda fun-fun aja tuh serta histori modifikasinya dapat diketahui dengan baik, terakhir pastikan di bagian lantai tidak ada karat ekstreem.  

• Duduk dan hidupkan mesin. Lalu cek panel instrument apakah lampu-lampu indikator, monitor data display/ LCD dan tachometer masih berfungsi baik, hidupkan AC dan cek semua option yang ada, hidupkan wiper, lampu-lampu interior dan eksterior lalu cek apakah masih berfungsi normal, dll. Singkat kata hidupkan semua tombol yang ada di dalam dan cek apakah semuanya masih berfungsi normal. Jika ditemukan ada yang sudah tidak berfungsi mintalah diganti/ dibetulkan dulu sebelum mobil dibeli, jika penjual ngeles/ menolak, boleh saja lupakan untuk membeli mobil tersebut (daripada anda kerepotan di belakang hari).

• Minta dilakukan test jalan sekedarnya untuk memeriksa apakah; speedometer masih berfungsi baik, pedal kopling tidak berat dan kopling masih menggigit kuat/ tidak slip, tuas transmisi tidak seret saat pindah gigi/ berpindah sendiri (untuk transmisi otomatic pastikan tidak ada gejala transmisi loose/ selip), rem & ABS (bila ada) berfungsi baik tidak pincang dan ndut-ndutan, power steering berfungsi baik (stir kemudi masih enteng diputarnya), terakhir cek rem tangan apakah masih berfungsi baik.

• Bila semuanya sudah mantap/ OK, cek keaslian dan kelegalan surat-surat mobil (BPKB & STNK) di kantor samsat terdekat dan cek polis asuransi bila ada. Hindari BPKB duplikat karena mobil bakalan susah dijual kembali dan harga jualnya terjun bebas. 
 

• Bila semuanya beres, tetaplah tampil cool dan kritis. Lakukan negosiasi ulang dan bila harga sudah deal lakukan transaksi dengan cara paling aman, misal ajak penjual ke bank langganan yang orang-orangnya sudah familier dengan Anda. Pastikan sekali lagi surat-surat penting sudah di tangan, termasuk semua kunci cadangan, tools dan dongkrak bawaan pabrik dan ban serep, lebih beruntung lagi bila Buku Pedoman Pemilik dan Buku Panduan Service-nya masih ada dan dapat diterima utuh. Jangan lupa menyiapkan kwitansi ber materai sebagai tanda bukti pembayaran sudah dilakukan. Ingat yang asli untuk pihak pembeli.  

Note:

Selalu bawa teman 1 atau 2 orang, lebih bagus lagi yang mengerti/ ahli tentang seluk-beluk mobil. Selain untuk teman sharing/ diskusi juga, untuk menjaga keselamatan dan keamanan diri agar terhindar dari tindak penipuan/ kejahatan. WHO KNOWS lah yaw...? 

Hindari sikap menyepelekan kondisi mesin, meskipun bisa diperbaiki di bengkel manapun, tetapi hasilnya tidak akan pernah memuaskan. Hal ini disebabkan banyaknya standar (SOP); peralatan/ tools, pengukuran, perbaikan, pengujian, penggantian, pemasangan dan pembongkaran, dll., dari pabrikan pembuat mobil, yang tidak mungkin dimiliki oleh bengkel-bengkel tersebut. Tapi janganlah risau, agar tidak terlalu mengecewakan, cari dan pilihlah bengkel terpercaya yang sudah berpengalaman dan terkenal ahli dalam menangani mesin mobil yang seperti Anda miliki. Atau kalau Anda tidak mau pusing bawa saja ke bengkel resminya dengan resiko kantong jebol parah.
Setelah mobil bekas sudah berada ditangan, maka tidak ada salahnya bila Anda segera mengambil tindakan untuk mengembalikan kebugaran mobil second pujaan yang baru Anda miliki. Berikut Tips Sederhana Rebuild Ringan Mobil Bekas.

Good Luck & Peace!

TIPS & TRICKS. APPARENTLY BALANCING WHEEL & SPOORING IT, IS OBLIGATORY!

Balancing and spooring wheels (wheels & tires) the car is often neglected by car owners (including me, he3x). Until the rising problems on the wheel, then came out to do the balancing and spooring. Yet when it came out, the actual wheels themselves secretly been saving a lot of problems so stacked. So do not be surprised though the wheels are in balance and in spooring well by experts with super advanced equipments, but why is the car still not feeling / uncomfortable when driving.

When a car while driving on a smooth road and heard strange noises (buzzing and noisy) suspected of originating from the wheels and followed vibrating steering wheel that feels unusual (although these vibrations will subside at certain speeds), this sign the wheels are balancing must be done immediately. If this is ignored, then it is guaranteed to cause more damage in a short time.

The flow logic like this:

Wheels that are not do not balance, they will spin while shaking bouncing (dribbling) on the road. Vibration is growing in line with the increase in speed of the car.

The vibrations like dribbling This causes the tire tread the path (road) is not constant / perfect, the result will have tire wear unequal / undulating.
Tires are worn unevenly will further aggravate the situation, in addition to the more severe tire wear, vibration caused also getting bigger, causing the steering wheel vibrates participate and feel like flying. Usually this condition will smell burnt rubber / burning of a sudden come into the cabin when the car drove. You can imagine the heat generated by the tire & wheel, that not balance, is acute! This is very dangerous, because the tires were so hot when the car was forced to go faster is likely to explode suddenly. BLAAARRR!!!

Greater vibration will cause the suspension to work extra hard to beyond limits. It can be characterized by taking extreme vibration in the steering wheel and the car floated. This situation frankly would accelerate the deterioration suspension (in days), related suspension components (arms, hinges and links), the components of the steering gear box, power steering module (both hydraulic and electrical type) and its components related components braking system / brake system (brake pads, iron disc / disc brake, the drum, hydraulic brake systems).

Suspension damage can be marked with a wild swing cars / bouncy alias ajrut-ajrutan as it passes through a bumpy road and cavities, bumps alias polisi tidur, etc.. Damage related suspension components marked with alien sounds like a collision (kletek-kletek) as it passes through the streets of broken or when the steering wheel at full bend. Damage to the steering gear box marked with gear teeth are heavily worn and leaks oil. Breakdown power steering hydraulic type marked with the leaking oil and heavy steering. Damage type electric power steering is marked with a rough sound of electric motors and the steering feels heavy when operated. Damage braking system most easily marked with the brake pedal pulsate when stepped on braking, which means the brake wear / brake disc and drum pad following unequal / undulating.

So because of the wheel late in the balance, consequently may be sudden wallet malnutrition; skinny, thin, and curved again! Alias ​​tekor habeeezzz ...

So when the wheels must be dibalance? It is safer when done regularly follow a schedule such as the Service Manual, because it is based on research by each car manufacturer. Wheel balancing schedule can be accelerated / shortened when the roads are often impassable condition is in shambles / seriously damaged or  after a long trip, for example, going home to the hometown.

The cost for the wheels balancing are still makes sense alias counted cheap when compared their benefits, so do not hesitate to go to the shop of balancing & spooring subscription.

balancing.

Sometimes annoyed, too, that after the wheels balanced and the vibration is gone, but the tires still noisy "Grak gruk-Grak gruk", both when driving slowly or fast. It is different from the problem, try to check whether tires while many gravel / foreign objects stuck in the grooves / tread. And if there immediately clear. When you have cleared but the noise "Grak gruk-Grak gruk" still stubborn and kickback tires were noticeably hard, it means that the tire rubber has hardened (maybe because of their age already reached over 2 years)..

If you are not bothered by the noise of tires, plus the evenly distributed tire wear and tread / profile tires still within safe tolerance limit, frankly tires can still be used, although it had its day to replace with a new one. Outside it immediate purchase new tires, make sure the tires are still fresh (avoid product expiration / expired) and do not forget to do balancing first (usually free, as a bonus with the purchase of a package of tires).

After balancing, keep spooring done when? Spooring done when alignment / straightness of the car has been changed as a result; wheel imbalance is severe, often drove long roads or bumps / road traps, wheels run out hard mashing the curb / boundary of concrete, etc..

Simple way to check a car whether need to in spooring / no, as follows:

Try car drove enough in a quiet street, straight, smooth and flat, if the car could go straight to the hands of the steering wheel irrespective in take a while (about 10 seconds) means the car does not need spooring. Conversely if the car moves off to the left or right depending on the trend, then the car should be in spooring. Or when a car drove straight free but the steering wheel feels pull / withstand to right or vice versa (on the trip rather than the time a rather long drive, the hands will feel sore side), then the car must be taken to the shop of balancing & spooring subscription.

spooring/ alignment.

edge worn tires and new tires.

Delay spooring, causing tire tread left and right had wear / bald edge. To be efficient, not every job balancing tires followed spooring job, but on the contrary work spooring should be followed by balancing work. But if feel less steady, ask both of them to do, it's up to you. The important thing is the health of the legs of the car is maintained well.

Good Luck & Peace!

TIPS & TRICKS: HOW TO REPLACE & INSTALL CAR BATTERY, BY YOURSELF, OF TOYOTA COROLLA ALL NEW ALTIS 2008.

Replace and install, by yourself, to your car's battery does look trivial, such as replacing the children toys's baterry. But is it so? The answer could be true for old era cars, that were not yet computerized (without ECU).

But then suddenly the head became dizzy plus heart palpitations, dagdigdug, when faced with the latest high-tech car that is fully automated and fully computerized. To replace a car battery as it is, of course, should not be arbitrary, but it took extra caution especially when done by yourself. Remember the fact that ECU is perishable goods/ fragile, the price is super expensive, and often these parts inventory in the factory's authorized repair shop, empty! So the original ECU had to be imported from abroad (not guaranteed still available), and do not forget, it could take months to bring in here (Indonesia). So what gitchu loch?

3 basic knowledge needed when it will replace the battery, by yourself, on computerized car (ECU):

a. Identify and examine the character of the car ECU program.

1. ECU Program deleted (RESET) when the battery is removed: can be found on cars made by European countries, such as the Peugeot 206, VW Polo. Guaranteed machines can not be operated or may operate but faltered alias ndut-ndutan, despite a new battery installed still smell the store. The above problem will be completed if the ECU program reinstall. So for this type of car, to replace the new battery is better done by the manufacturer's authorized repair shop. Note: You must pay an additional fee to re-install the computer program of the ECU.
2. ECU program is not deleted (NO RESET) when the battery is removed: can be found in Japanese production cars, like the Toyota Soluna, Innova, Altis. For this type of car, the work to replace with new batteries  still can be done by yourself, especially in an emergency.

b. Avoid economical logic, just buy a new battery branded/ brand famous for having quality assurance. Although different brands with original battery congenital car (CBU), the new battery Type Code must be equal to the old battery. More steady take a ruler to convince myself that the size of the Length, Width and Height (LxWxH) between old and new batteries are the same, so when the installation is not a new problem arises.

c. Recognizing the signs of the old battery soon broken/ dead. When these signs arise, please do not waste time, spend, instantly buy a new battery and replace the old batteries before facing a big problem. Example: car suddenly can not be started in a mall parking lot, at the time of dispersal mall. Bisa berabe!

Signs of imminent battery is broken / dead:

1. Age battery is over 2 years of use (in Indonesia and to use normal load).
2. The emergence of a pile of salt crystals that appear recurrent/ recalcitrant, despite being cleaned with a brush and warm water, in the area around the battery poles.
3. Shape battery packs already bulging
4. The main lighting is not as bright as the first / dingy.
5. Wiper moves limp. When turned off can not return to the starting position.
6. On start early in the morning, kick starter / crank battery feels underpowered, but the engine can still operate. When these signs appear, then do not waste time, immediately buy a new battery and replace the battery pairs long, because "time of death" battery is very close.

The steps to replace and install the battery, yourself, which the car was equipped with ECU (NO RESET):

ini lokasi aki itu.

Note:     

Practiced at Toyota Corolla ALL NEW ALTIS 2008 G (smart entry & keyless starter).

New battery used branded battery, maintenance free character PLUS plug straight start.

1. Make sure the car "key" in a state totally OFF.
2. Open and remove the negative connector of the negative pole of the battery with the correct ring spanner. Avoid using a spanner on the nut and bolt head, so as not to wear / damage.
3. Open the plastic safety cover from the positive pole, then open and remove the positive connector from the positive pole of the battery with the correct ring spanner.
4. Open the bolt and nut fastener battery with the correct ring spanner, then remove the battery carefully from its holder and put it in a safe place.
5. Clean the battery holder and surrounding areas with: brush, paint brush and cloth. Do not forget to clean the inside of the positive and negative connectors with a cloth and fine sandpaper.
6. Enter and fitting the new battery in the holder. Make sure the battery polarity is in conformity with the position of each connector. DO NOT BACKWARD! Risk ECU broken.
   
7. Plug bolt and nut fastener batteries, tightly, use the correct ring spanner. Check whether the battery is still moving, if so, tighten again until the battery firmly on the holder.
8. Plug and tighten the positive connector on the positive pole of the battery with the correct ring spanner. Make sure the installation again, really tight. Attach a plastic safety cover the positive pole.
9. Plug and tighten the negative connector on the negative pole of the battery with the correct ring spanner. Make sure the installation again, really tight.
10. Initializing the system (ECU program) as in Note (at the bottom).
11. If the engine is able to operate and round stationary engine is stable, then check whether all car electrical equipment: lights, air conditioning, tape, wiper etc. also functioning normally.
12. Do a road test to make sure the car is not halting way.
13. Do a test road a bit further to make sure the car is completely normal functioning again.
14. Finish & good luck! 

Note:

Battery packs should be installed tightly on the holder, given the location of the battery near the engine and wheels. This position is extremely vulnerable to vibration and shock. Imperfect installation cause the battery to move freely everywhere and over time can break the main wiring connector.

Connector main cables, each one should really firmly connected to the battery poles. Fitting a slack lead battery charging is interrupted, while the engine is operating. Battery is guaranteed to always come up short, alias tekor habez!

On the basis of security and safety to the danger of shortage/ short circuit, then the order of release/ installation of main cables should be followed:

To remove the battery, the negative connector is removed first, then the positive connector is removed.

To install the battery, the positive connector installed first, then the negative connector installed.

How to initialize the system (ECU program) Altis, as follows:

a. Press the brake pedal with the automatic transmission lever in N code (neutral) position . 
b. Open and then close the door anywhere. 
c. Turn on the machine. (If the machine is not yet operate? repeat steps a, b and c).

Good Luck & Peace!